Two species of Mediterranean tortoises are the most popular: Testudo graeca (the Greek tortoise) sometimes called the Mediterranean spur-thighed tortoise as it has a claw-like spur on each hinnd limb and Testudo hermanni, sometimes called the spur-tailed tortoise as it has a similar projection on its tail.
Special facts about Tortoises
Their shell is made of bone, covered with horny plates or shields. Five plates extend over the spinal region, with 8 costal plates arranged around. These are surrounded by 23 smaller, marginal plates around the edge of the shell. The tortoise has the same number of plates throughout its life, with each one growing larger with the size of the shell. Growth rings which are present in the plates give some indication of the age of a tortoise, with each ring approximately representing a year.
The spade-like limbs of the tortoise are well-suited to digging and the claws of some older individuals will show wear-and-tear
Do I need to supply drinking water?
Water should always be provided in a shallow dish as they have difficulty drinking from a bowl. Tortoises need to reach forward to their drinking supply so the best solution is a very shallow saucer with a few stones around the rim to stabilize it.

What do tortoises eat?
Tortoises are the least well-equipped of all reptiles to take live animal food so they are predominantly herbivorous (although have been known to eat the odd slug)
Tortoises have no teeth, but use their horn-covered jaws to tear food into small enough pieces to swallow.
A tortoise will thrive if a varied diet is provided and a careful use of appropriate supplements are used.
75% of a Mediterranean tortoises diet should comprise of weeds, flowers and grasses inicluding:
- Grass to graze on when outside
- Dried grasses like hay and alfalfa as a substitute if housed indoors for a period of time
- Prickly pear cactus pads (natural food in the wild)
- Plantains
- Clover- Dutch, white and red
- Vetches
- Dandelion (leaves and flowers)
- Stonecrops
- Sow thistle
- Sainfoin
- Chicory
- Shepard's purse
- Bindweeds
- Bittercress
- Charlock
- Chickweed
- creeping bell flower
- Hawk bits & cats ears
Hedge mustard
- Mallows
- Nipplewort
- Roses (flowers)
- Honeysuckle (flowers)
- Courgette (flowers)
- Nasturtiums (leaves and flowers)
Up to 15% can comprise of commercial green vegetables, which include coarse cabbage and cauliflower, kale, watercress, Bok-choy collard greens, mustard greens and swiss chard.
Fresh herbs such as flat-leaved parsley, basil, coriander and oregano.
No more than 10% fruit that includes apples, pears, strawberries, blackberries, figs, melon, apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums, papaya, mango, paw-paw, and mandarin oranges.
***Please note that species from dry, arid climates should not be given fruits in any quantity, as this will create loose motions. Instead the levels of dietary fibre should be increased.
A good quality calcium, vitamin and mineral supplement such as Nutrobal should be used, because where the tortoises live in their natural habitat the soils have a much higher calcium level and contain more trace elements than our English soils.
In the wild, tortoises have been observed eating empty snail shells to obtain the extra calcium and minerals. In captivity cuttlefish bone can be grated over food or left in whole and this will also aid in natural wearing of their beak.

Caution:
Cabbage and cauliflower should not be used in excess as they contain chemicals that may cause goitre.
Salad vegetable such as lettuce, cucumber and celery should not be fed to tortoises as they mainly contain water and have very little nutritional content.
Spinach, top of beetroot and turnips, leaves of rhubarb and tomato skin all contain compounds known as oxalates which bind to the calcium in their diet and prevent the tortoise from obtaining it, leading to metabolic bone disease.
Other foods to avoid include kiwi fruits and banana, which are very sugary and avocados, as they are very high in fats.
Environment
Tortoises are happy if they have different textures to explore. Seed trays full of different type of grasses and plants are a good idea. They also like to explore different shapes and sizes of stones and logs to climb over. Do not put in logs that are too high for your tortoise to climb as they can tip over on to their backs and suffer an untimely death.
What exercise does a tortoise require?
Ideally, tortoises should be allowed to roam freely in a well-enclosed garden. By this means they can select their own food which will be much better suited to their dietary needs. They should be fenced off from areas which could possibly harbour chemicals such as pesticide or from precious plants or vegetables.
Several times per day it will be necessary to check that they have not fallen helplessly upside down with their ambitious climbing. Tethering a tortoise is never recommended but sometimes it is safer to keep your tortoise in an enclosure.
Make sure that at all times he has a shelter to which he can retreat in extreme heat, cold or rain.
When does a tortoise hibernate?
In nature, tortoises burrow into the ground to hibernate, but this is not recommended in captivity. Although it can vary, most tortoises will normally stop feeding in early winter -October or November. When this happens, it is recommended that you prohibit your tortoise's movement so as to allow him to maintain body weight.

What do I do when he is ready to hibernate?
Your tortoise needs to be placed in the middle of a large, strong box that has been packed with insulating material such as straw, shredded paper or dry autumn leaves. The box needs to be fitted with a strong but well-ventilated lid.
Where should I store my tortoise during hibernation?
It is best to keep the box in a cool but well-ventilated place such as a garden shed. The box containing your tortoise must be protected from frost - this can usually be achieved by being raised slightly from the ground.
You must also take precautions against fume-inhalation (i.e. a garage is not suitable)Always guard against attack by pests such as rats, mice and cats which may pose a serious threat to your tortoise.
When will my tortoise 'wake up'?
When they rouse from hibernation in the spring, tortoises need to be cared for indoors for several weeks to warm up and reach an active state again. Attempt to bathe open the eyes and mouth and give a warm bath in a shallow bath of warm water. When the tortoise's body temperature rises above 15 degrees Celsius a tortoise will begin to feed again.

Are there any dangers involved when a tortoise 'wakes up'?
It is very dangerous to let your tortoise lapse back into its hibernation state.
Although it will appear perfectly healthy, your tortoise will quickly die of malnutrition if it does not eat after rousing and then slips back into hibernation. Supply plenty of your tortoise's favorite food soon after it awakes in springtime.
Are tortoises prone to any specific ailments?
Tortoises are frequently subject to colds (RNS) showing symptoms of labored breathing, watery eyes and a discharging nose. RNS is not a disease, but is a term used to describe a bacterial/fungal/viral infection with one or more of a wide variety of organisms. It can occur in any species, but seems to be prevalent in the Leopard tortoise.
It can occur at any time of the year, can be fairly difficult to spot in the early stages and has a nasty habit of recurring. Any animal that has been infected can, and often does, become a carrier. He may not display any symptoms but can infect any tortoise that comes into contact with him.
Leopard tortoises are the worst affected, perhaps because of their size, nutritional state and a general inability to cope with our humidity and dampness. Those that recover often relapse, especially if treatment is stopped because "he seems much better now" Keep him in a warm environment and bathe the eyes and nose periodically. If there is no improvement within a week, seek medical advice.
If a tick is found on one of the tortoise's limbs, dab it with a few drops of methylated spirit. This treatment will mean it gradually loses its grip until it can be safely pulled out with a pair of tweezers